Day Three, but really one, so I'll call it Two.

So, today was our first real day, even though I've been in Europe three days now. Got a bit of sleep after listening fairly late to the carrying on that goes on every night in the Campo de' Fiori  (I can't imagine how our friends do it in the summer when it goes on 'til all hours, and they have to keep the windows open!) We finally got up around 11, made some caffe and figured out where we were heading by about 1. 

First photo of the day- a charming little building front just off the Campo de' Fiori

Headed first to the Museo Barracco, an interesting collection of antique sculpture assembled in what was a Farnese palace originally, designed by Anthony da Sangallo (maybe) with a  few remnants of nice 17th century fresco decoration on some of the ceilings. Mr Barracco (1829-1914) collected these pieces, and there are some good photos showing how he displayed them when he lived there. 

cool ceiling frescos in the loggia of the Palazzo Farnesina ai Baullari- now the Museo Barracco

We then went across the street to the Museo di Roma, housed in the Palazzo Braschi, at the south end of the Piazza Navona. The grand stairs are truly that, with tons of marble and good light from the skylight flooding through, even on an overcast day like today was. You could really picture the grand dames and dukes moving stately up and down the gently rising stairs. 

I found Will Shakespeare! Living in the stairs of the Palazzo Braschi!

The collection is a rather forgettable assemblage of popes, cardinals, and other Romans, but the setting is pretty nice, with several cool painted rooms, including a funny Chinoiserie room with fake Chinese script, and the jaw dropper of the day, a room that once belonged to the Torlonia family, with very fine and elegant painted grottesche and trompe l'oeil niches. It did have some fun paintings of celebrations around town, and some 19th century views of Rome by a painter named Ippolito Caffi that were very nice. 

I think this guy is trying to copy my beard!

Wandered over to see the outside of Borromini's crazy Church of Sant'Ivo, with it's corkscrew top, and then Sant Agostino, which has a panel by Raphael and an altar piece by Caravaggio, set in a profusion of colored marbles. Always astounds me  to see how many churches here have decorations that would make them a central attraction in any US city, but are just one more of the crowd here.

Crazy crown of the Chiesa di Sant'Ivo, by Borromini. Vino, anyone?

Passed by a  French bakery that had some wheat-free bread (bought it!) and then we headed back early to make some dinner and settle in to reading and writing about the day. All in all, a nice start.

Marianne taking a drink from one of the many public fountains in Rome. Anyone that buys water in plastic bottles here has been sold a bill of goods!  The water in Rome is as good as it gets, and it's all over the place for free!